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Value: What Berlin is really like

Tacheles Berlin:

Art, Freedom and a Textbook Example of Gentrification

Foto von einem seitlichen, besprühten Eingang vom Tacheles Berlin.

Alright, friends,

when I started thinking about the next topic, a thousand things went through my head.

Stories from my parents.
Things friends told me.
School memories.
My first party phase.
My first Jibbit.
My first real contact with actual artists.

As you can probably tell from the title, this is about Tacheles.
A place that many people today barely know anymore – or never really understood what it actually was.

And honestly, the best way to describe it is this:

It was a melting point of culture, cinema, music, drugs, positioning, art, parties, scene, memories, living, freedom and stories.

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Foto von einem versperrten Zugang mit Schloss und Kette vom Tacheles Berlin

My first memories at Tacheles Berlin: chaos, freedom and real encounters

I was there for the first time around 2006.
That was also the first time I saw a 1UP live bombing – something that left a lasting impression on me.

→ You can find our graffiti blog here.

Later, around the age of 15, I started going there regularly.
That must have been around 2008/2009.

Strobe lights.
Techno.
Cheap beer.

No one cared about you.
No door policy.
No “you’re not getting in”.

You were just there.

Foto in schwarz-weiss vom Tacheles Berlin Konzert.

And the feeling was unlike anything I had experienced in Berlin up to that point.

Magical.
Alternative.
Open.

But at the same time:

gritty,
unpolished,
raw.

A place that attracted people from all kinds of backgrounds –
including many from difficult circumstances.
And that’s exactly what made it so special.

My last memory: the closing party in 2012.

Foto vom besprühten und alten Innenraum vom ehemaligen Tacheles Berlin

The history of Tacheles Berlin: from department store to ruin

Tacheles is like a cat with nine lives.

At the beginning of the 20th century, the Friedrichstraßenpassage was built here – one of the largest shopping arcades in Berlin, with boutiques across five floors and a 48-meter-high dome above the main hall.

An architectural highlight.
Economically?
A disaster.
Not long after it opened, it was already over.

In 1928, AEG took over the building and turned it into the “House of Technology.”

Later, it was used by the National Socialists, and after that in the GDR by the FDGB and other institutions.
Although the building survived the Second World War relatively intact,
parts of it were demolished in the 1980s.

The dome – gone.

What remained was a mutilated ruin in the middle of Berlin.

Wand voller Graffiti im ehemaligen Tacheles Kunsthaus.

Tacheles Berlin occupation in 1990: how it all began

February 1990.
Shortly before the final demolition, artists occupied the building.
A few people. A ruin. An idea.
They stopped the destruction.
And gave the place a name:

Tacheles.

Plain talk.
Speaking the truth.
No filters.
That wasn’t a coincidence.

The art space was a direct response to the suffocating silence in the GDR.
Suddenly, everything felt possible.

Artists moved in.
Lived there.
Worked there.
Experimented.

For many visitors, Tacheles was:
a labyrinth,
a chaos,
a place full of energy.

Or simply put:
the center of the world – at least for a moment.

Most people experience Berlin the same way.
Sightseeing, long distances, endless Googling.
And in the end: they’ve seen a lot, but understood very little.

Berlin works differently.
The city doesn’t reveal itself through hotspots –
but through places you actually need to know.

I’m from Berlin and have been working in the hospitality industry for years, seeing every day how visitors experience the city – and often misjudge it.

That’s exactly why I’ve collected 500+ real places in Berlin.
No tourist traps. No generic lists.
Just places that actually work –
directly in your Google Maps, ready to use.

Foto von einem Mann zwischen Bierbänken vor besprühter Wand.

Why Tacheles Berlin was so special

Visitors were welcomed with open arms.

You could walk through studios,
explore exhibitions,
watch a film at the “High End 54” cinema
or simply sit in the courtyard and have a drink.

For almost 15 years, Tacheles was a refuge for artists.

No clear rules.
No clean structure.
No concept.

And that’s exactly why it worked.

Another historically significant place in Berlin, by the way, is the Olympiastadion.

→ You can read our blog here.

Foto von mehreren Personen auf einem Dach mit der Skyline Berlins.

Tacheles Berlin as a textbook example of gentrification

And this is where it gets interesting.
Because Tacheles wasn’t just an art space.
It’s a textbook example of gentrification.

In 1997, the site was sold.
Plans for a massive new urban development emerged.

The artists were allowed to stay –
for a symbolic rent.

But the pressure kept growing.
2008: termination.
2009: insolvency.

Years of conflict, legal battles and uncertainty.
And then:
2012 – eviction.

For me, Tacheles was one of the first moments where I really experienced gentrification hitting hard.

Back then, I didn’t even know there was a word for it.
But I knew something was happening here that didn’t feel right.

Of course, I had always noticed the changes in Berlin:

  • rising rents,
  • a different feeling in the city,
  • a different dialect,
  • new gastronomy,
  • new regulations,
  • more complaints.

But this was the moment it really hit me.

Bild von einer Lichterkette vom Tacheles Berlin bei Sonnenuntergang.

Because it wasn’t just any place.
It was a place where everything was open.
No closed doors.
24/7.

You could buy art.
(And honestly, you could buy almost anything your heart desired there.)
Music.
The first DVDs from graffiti crews.
You could get inspired.
Talk to artists.
Lose yourself.

You could get lost a thousand times –
and that was exactly the point.

It was right in the middle of Berlin,
on Oranienburger Straße,
and yet it felt like a completely different world.

A feeling that barely existed back then –
and today, doesn’t really exist at all anymore.
And that feeling is exactly what defined Berlin.

If there had been a public referendum back then,
I would have actually been out there trying to get as many votes as possible to preserve it.

My first real referendum, by the way, was Tempelhof Airport.
→ You can read the blog here.

For me, one thing is certain:

if Tacheles had been historically reconstructed,
it would be one of the most beautiful places in Berlin today.

neues Projekt Tacheles Berlin Wohnhaus.

Tacheles Berlin today: what remains of the art space

Today, the Quartier AM TACHELES stands in its place.

Offices.
Apartments.
Shops.
Restaurants.

Parts of it have actually been done quite well.
Fotografiska brings some culture back in.
The café works — to some extent.

But everything around it?
Often empty.
Hardly any life.
Interchangeable.

And even though it’s right in the middle of Berlin, it often feels empty today.

Cafés sit half full — or completely empty — something that would have been unthinkable there in the past.

Foto der besprühten Berliner Ruine Tacheles.

What has been lost from old Berlin

Back then, you could get lost.
Today, you find your way instantly.

Back then, you could talk to artists.
Today, you walk past storefronts.

Back then, everything was open.
Today, everything is planned.

Tacheles was a place
where Berlin experimented with itself.

Today, it’s a place
that works — for some.

Foto einer verschlossenen besprühten Tür in Berlin.

Conclusion: Tacheles was more than just a place

My parents still remember the stories from 1990.
Friends spent entire nights there.

And I had some of my first defining experiences there.
That’s exactly why Tacheles is, for me, one of the most mysterious and at the same time most important buildings of my youth.

I could tell so many more stories about what I experienced there…

But my mum reads these blogs from time to time as well 😉

Berlin is not a tourist attraction. Berlin is a city.

See you in the real Berlin – or here in the next blog.

Take care 🖤

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Sources: Book "Tacheles" by Michael Wolffsohn | Book "Tacheles" by Braus Verlag | Documentation "Tacheles in Berlin Mitte" by RBB | Contemporary witnesses from the family |  Most images in this article are sample images and were not taken at the places featured.

Frequently asked questions about Tacheles Berlin

Where is Tacheles Berlin?

The official address of the former Kunsthaus Tacheles was Oranienburger Straße 54-56a, 10117 Berlin-Mitte.

Today, the large, renovated complex is known as the “AM TACHELES” district, a newly developed urban quarter featuring apartments, offices, cafés, and the Museum of Photography.

Location: right in Berlin-Mitte, near the Oranienburger Straße S-Bahn station.

What was Tacheles in Berlin?

Tacheles was an alternative art and cultural space on Oranienburger Straße in Berlin-Mitte.

After being occupied in 1990, the former department store ruin developed into one of the most important places for Berlin’s art and subculture.
Artists lived and worked there, with studios, exhibitions, a cinema, bars and events.

For many, Tacheles wasn’t a traditional cultural venue, but a free space where art, music and scene existed without fixed rules.

Why was Tacheles closed?

Tacheles was evicted in 2012 after years of conflict between artists, owners and investors.

The lease was not renewed, while economic pressure on the centrally located site continued to increase.

Today, its closure is considered one of the most well-known examples of gentrification in Berlin, where alternative spaces were replaced by commercial development.

What is at Tacheles Berlin today?

Today, the site is home to the “AM TACHELES” quarter.
It now includes offices, apartments, restaurants and shops.

Part of the original building has been restored and is used, among others, by the photography museum Fotografiska.

Despite the redevelopment, many visitors feel that the original atmosphere is gone — the open, creative and unstructured spirit of Tacheles no longer exists today.