Spreewald
More Than Boat Tours and Pickles
Spreewald.
When you talk to people from Berlin about it, the same things usually come up:
Boats.
Canals.
Pickles.
And honestly:
If even a lot of Berliners think that’s all there is to it — how are people supposed to see it who are coming to Berlin for the first time?
Around 100 kilometers southeast of Berlin lies a region that’s much more than a day trip, a postcard, or a photo with a jar of pickles.
Spreewald is one of the most popular day trip destinations around Berlin — and at the same time one of those places people often experience surprisingly superficially.
People go there.
Take a boat tour.
Eat something.
Buy pickles.
And head back home.
You can do that.
But Spreewald is much bigger.
And much more interesting.
This blog answers pretty much everything people keep asking us:
Is Spreewald worth visiting?
Where is the best place to go?
How do you get there?
Is a day trip enough?
How much does it cost?
What can you do besides boat tours?
What’s worth doing with kids?
And why does everyone keep talking about pickles?
Spreewald at a Glance – if you only have 30 seconds
Spreewald at a Glance – if you only have 30 seconds
Distance from Berlin: around 100 km
Best for: a day trip or 2–3 days
Good with kids: Yes
Best time to visit: spring to autumn (every season has its own appeal)
Known for: waterways, boat tours, pickles, culture, cycling
Getting around: by boat, bike, canoe or on foot
Budget feel: mid-range – with a family, costs add up quickly
Spreewald in Numbers – before we get started
Before we get into tips, let’s quickly understand what we’re actually talking about here.
- Spreewald is located in southeastern Brandenburg.
- Large parts of the region are part of a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve.
- The region covers around 475 km².
- Almost 1,000 kilometers of waterways run through the landscape.
- Only around 300 kilometers of them are open for boating.
- Lübben roughly marks the transition between Upper and Lower Spreewald.
- In the past, many places were easier to reach by water than by road.
Spreewald is not a sight.
It’s a system.
Water.
Routes.
Villages.
Culture.
And suddenly you understand why some people have been coming back here for decades.
Is Spreewald actually worth visiting?
Short answer: Yes.
But probably not for the reasons most people expect.
If you want to see as many sights as possible in a short amount of time:
Berlin is probably more exciting.
If you’re looking for a place that feels completely different from Berlin:
Then Spreewald is worth it.
And not just as a day trip.
But also as a short Spreewald getaway.
If that contrast is exactly what you like, take a look later at our blog about central Berlin.
As a Berliner in Spreewald
Alright, friends,
I’m pretty sure the first time I went to Spreewald was before I even started school at six.
Probably like most Berliners who didn’t go on holiday every year.
And the last time was this year.
In between:
Family trips.
Friends.
School trips.
Grandmas.
Guided boat tours.
Canoeing.
And still, the way I see it has completely changed.
As a kid, I honestly thought boat tours were boring.
Sitting.
Waiting.
Slow.
Today I suddenly understand why adults sit there and just look at the water.
At home, one of those Gurken-Paule magnets is still hanging on our fridge.
And every time, it goes pretty much the same way:
We go canoeing.
My dad looks forward to Schmalzbrot.
We buy pickles.
And days later, the pickles are still sitting in the fridge at home.
Somehow, that’s just part of it.
Why Spreewald became a day trip destination in the first place
Today, Spreewald feels like an obvious destination.
But for a long time, it wasn’t.
Until the 19th century, many places here were relatively remote.
The region worked through water.
Boats transported:
- People
- Building materials
- Food
Many villages were much easier to reach by water.
Only with better roads and later the railway did more people start visiting the region.
Even Theodor Fontane had already been here.
He visited Lübben, Lübbenau and Burg — including a boat tour — and later turned those impressions into his writing.
And that’s exactly why Spreewald feels different from many other day trip destinations today:
It wasn’t built as a leisure park.
At some point, it was discovered.
What many people don’t know about Spreewald
Boat tours weren’t an attraction in the past.
They were everyday life.
To this day, many houses still face the water.
Street signs are often bilingual.
Not because of marketing.
But because the culture of the Sorbs and Wends is still visible today. The Sorbs are one of the oldest settlement groups in the region. Many traditions, festivals and crafts have their roots here.
And:
Not every waterway can be used.
To protect the biosphere reserve, there are rules:
- don’t paddle everywhere
- don’t dock everywhere
- don’t camp everywhere
- roughly until one hour after sunset at the latest
There’s also one rule in Upper Spreewald:
Boat tours have right of way.
And in many places, there are locks, small weirs and even boat slides.
Boat tour or canoeing – which is more worth it?
The honest answer: Both.
But they’re completely different.
Boat tour:
- more relaxed
- better overview
- less planning
- more explanation
Canoeing:
- more personal
- more to discover
- more active
We went canoeing ourselves as a family.
And I still remember:
Even with a map, finding your way was sometimes harder than expected.
As a kid, I found that exhausting.
Today I’d say:
That was often the best part.
Bridges.
Private gardens.
Benches.
Small water access points.
And suddenly you realise:
Spreewald is bigger than the main boat docks.
One thing that always impressed me as a kid:
the locks.
The boat stops.
Someone opens it.
Tips end up in a little basket.
Often it’s kids or teenagers from the area doing it.
Then you keep going.
So simple.
And somehow beautiful.
Spreewald – where is the most beautiful place?
The honest answer:
That completely depends on how you want to travel.
Lübbenau – the classic starting point
Best for: first visit, day trips, families
For many people, Lübbenau is what they picture when they think of Spreewald.
This is where many boat tours begin.
For many people, this is where Spreewald starts.
Here you’ll find:
- harbour
- old town
- pickle stalls
- boat docks
- museum
Yes — in summer it can get busier.
Terraces.
Restaurants.
People.
But many people make the mistake of thinking:
This is what all of Spreewald looks like.
Just a few minutes further on, the atmosphere changes.
Worth knowing:
The Spreewald Museum shows everyday life around 150 years ago.
Including:
- general store
- traditional crafts
- the Spreewald railway
- historic steam locomotive
Lehde – my strongest culture recommendation
Best for: families, culture, history
Lehde feels more like a real village than a museum.
The open-air museum is one of the oldest open-air museums in Brandenburg.
Here you’ll discover:
- historic farmhouses
- family bed
- boat building
- basket weaving
- washing area
- wooden shoes
- kitchen garden
- pickles
- horseradish
Kids can:
- wash clothes
- milk cows
- try on wooden clogs
On top of that, there are interactive tours, markets and workshops.
And suddenly you realise:
Spreewald was never just about nature.
Burg – cycling, spa and staying a little longer
Best for: a Spreewald getaway, cycling, wellness
Burg feels more spread out.
Less harbour.
More landscape.
The Spreewald Therme is one of the most interesting places in the region.
The thermal brine water is drawn from around 1,350 metres underground.
With around 240 grams of salt per litre, it’s one of the stronger brines.
Highlights:
- brine pools
- floating
- pickle sauna
- wellness
- fitness
Plus:
- barefoot park
- cycling
- hiking
If you enjoy cycling:
The Pickle Cycle Route runs for around 260 kilometres through Spreewald.
Not all at once.
But it shows something pretty well:
Pickles aren’t decoration here.
Schlepzig – underrated
Best for: peace, nature
Schlepzig is located in Lower Spreewald.
Less going on.
Less known.
More landscape.
Worth seeing:
The Willow Cathedral.
A living structure.
Not spectacular.
But unusual.
Leipe – to understand it
Best for: atmosphere, photos
Leipe was founded on an island.
For a long time, life here worked through water.
To this day, many houses still face the waterways.
If you want to understand why Spreewald looks different:
Leipe.
If you’re looking for beautiful perspectives: take a look later at our blog about Berlin photo spots.
Things to do in Spreewald – even without a boat tour
A lot of people reduce Spreewald to water.
But there’s much more:
- Lehde Open-Air Museum
- Pickle Cycle Route
- Spreewald Therme in Burg
- Castle Island in Lübben
- Barefoot Park
- Spreewelten
- hiking
- cycling
- culture
- markets
If you enjoy walking: our blog about walks in Berlin is a good fit.
Spreewelten – swimming with penguins
Yes.
That sounds made up.
It isn’t.
Spreewelten is one of the most unusual activities in Spreewald.
Not classic.
But really exciting with family.
Why pickles, though?
Spreewald without pickles?
Hard to imagine.
The wet soil and the local climate made the region suitable for growing them early on.
Over generations, pickling businesses developed.
The pickle became a regional product.
Then identity.
Then tourism.
That’s why today you’ll find:
- Pickle Cycle Route
- pickle stalls
- pickle souvenirs
- pickle festivals
And yes:
Gurken-Paule somehow became part of it.
What to eat in Spreewald (besides pickles)
Of course:
pickles.
But not only that.
Typical:
- Schmalzbrot
- horseradish
- regional food
- sheet cake
My dad would say:
Schmalzbrot first.
Is Spreewald worth visiting with kids?
Surprisingly:
Yes. Very.
Water.
Short distances.
Hands-on places.
Penguins.
Open-air museum.
Castle Island.
If you’re looking for more: take a look at our blog about Berlin with kids.
And for older generations too:
I think for my grandmas, nature + quiet + sitting + family was the perfect combination anyway.
Best time to visit Spreewald
Every season has its own appeal.
Spring: green.
Summer: the most lively — but busier.
Autumn: probably underrated.
Winter: quieter.
My feeling:
Spring, summer and autumn are the strongest seasons for a first visit.
How to get from Berlin to Spreewald
By regional train: very straightforward.
Take Deutsche Bahn’s RE2 (Nauen – Berlin – Königs Wusterhausen – Lübbenau (Spreewald) – Cottbus).
By car: more flexible. Spreewald is very easy to reach from Berlin by car.
Take the A113 and A13 directly into the region. Depending on your destination and traffic, the drive takes around 60 to 75 minutes for roughly 85 to 100 kilometres.
Once you’re there, I’d stick to: bike, boat, and walking.
If you only have one day: Lübbenau.
More time: add Burg.
If you’re already heading south:
Tropical Island works well.
Or combine nature with history:
Wünsdorf.
And when you’re back in Berlin:
Make sure to read our blog: Berlin Insider Tips.
What does a day in Spreewald actually cost?
Not extreme.
But often more than expected.
- boat tour
- parking
- drinks
- food
- getting there
- souvenirs
With a family, it adds up.
For four people, with a boat tour and food, expect to spend at least €200 for the day.
My tip:
Less planning. More time together.
What I wouldn’t do in Spreewald
- try to do everything in one day
- only stay around the harbour
- only go to restaurants
- only do a boat tour
- only cycle
Spreewald lives from small detours and random discoveries.
Who Spreewald is NOT worth it for
If you:
- only have half a day
- actually wanted to see Berlin
- want to tick everything off
- are only looking for the perfect photo
- need constant action
- have a strong pollen allergy
Then Spreewald might disappoint you.
And that’s okay.
My most honest tip for Spreewald
Go.
But not with the expectation:
“I want to see sights and fit in as much as possible.”
Instead:
“Show me a day that feels different from typical Berlin.”
Berlin is not a sight. Berlin is a city.
See you in the honest Berlin — or here in the next blog.
Take care 🖤
MOST IMAGES IN THIS ARTICLE ARE SAMPLE IMAGES AND WERE NOT TAKEN AT THE PLACES FEATURED.
Check out our blogs on Berlin history.
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