Tempelhofer Feld Berlin
Honest Tips for Europe's Largest Open Space
What is Tempelhofer Feld?
Tempelhofer Feld is the former airfield of Tempelhof Airport and is now the largest inner-city open space in Europe.
Since opening as a public park in 2010, Berliners and visitors have used the former runways for cycling, skating, jogging, picnicking, or simply unwinding in the middle of the city.
Admission is free.
Is Tempelhofer Feld worth visiting?
Yes – if you want to experience Berlin beyond the classic tourist attractions.
Tempelhofer Feld doesn't offer spectacular attractions in the traditional sense. Instead, you'll find wide open space, freedom, and an atmosphere that's hard to find in any other major European city.
That's exactly why so many Berliners consider it one of the city's most beautiful places.
Tempelhofer Feld at a Glance
- Largest inner-city open space in Europe
- Around 355 hectares in size
- Former airfield of Tempelhof Airport
- Free admission
- Open from sunrise to sunset
- Perfect for cycling, skating, jogging, and picnicking
- THF Tower, community gardens, and Nuture Art Minigolf located on site
- Situated between Tempelhof, Neukölln, and Schöneberg
Why Tempelhofer Feld Isn't Just Another Park
Alright, friends,
few open spaces in Germany have been debated as much as Tempelhofer Feld.
Airport or park? Build on it or preserve it? Housing or open space?
Over the years, countless ideas were proposed for the site's future. At one point, people talked about a Formula One circuit, then a German version of Hollywood, and later new residential neighborhoods for tens of thousands of people.
Today, most of those ideas seem almost impossible to imagine.
As a kid in the '90s and early 2000s, I flew from this airport on family holidays. I've honestly lost count of how many birthdays, barbecues, and walks I've spent here since then. The most recent was a good friend's 30th birthday.
We carried coolers, sun umbrellas, a barbecue, and food onto the field before spending the entire day next to one of the former runways. That's exactly what makes this place so special.
Tempelhofer Feld doesn't feel like a typical city park. It feels as if Berlin simply decided to leave an enormous amount of open space right in the middle of the city.
While places like Museumsinsel, the Rotes Rathaus, and Nikolaiviertel tell the story of Berlin's past, Tempelhofer Feld shows a completely different side of the city:
Freedom, wide open space, and room for people to make it whatever they want.
How Big Is Tempelhofer Feld Really?
Tempelhofer Feld covers around 355 hectares and is considered the largest inner-city open space in Europe.
The first time you stand here, you quickly realize that numbers alone don't really capture its scale. The site is larger than the entire Principality of Monaco and covers the equivalent of more than 500 football fields.
The paved loop around the field alone is about six kilometers long, and many visitors underestimate the distances. That's exactly what makes this place so unique.
While Berlin parks like Volkspark Friedrichshain and Gärten der Welt were carefully designed, Tempelhofer Feld feels almost endless.
There are hardly any trees, no narrow paths, and very few visual barriers. Instead, you can look across the former runways all the way to the horizon.
It's only when you're standing here that you understand why Berliners so often talk about the "wide open space" of Tempelhofer Feld.
It's not a marketing slogan—it's the real experience of this place.
What Can You Do at Tempelhofer Feld?
Tempelhofer Feld isn't defined by landmarks—it's defined by what people make of it.
In the morning, joggers do laps along the former runways. During the day, cyclists, skateboarders, and inline skaters roll across the asphalt.
Families fly kites, friends meet for picnics, and on warm summer evenings, small groups gather on blankets as the sun slowly disappears behind the airport building.
That's exactly what sets Tempelhofer Feld apart from so many other places in Berlin. There’s no fixed walking route and no set itinerary. Everyone experiences Tempelhofer Feld differently.
Some people spend an hour here, while others stay for the entire day.
If you'd like to pick up food beforehand, you'll find a much better selection at Berlin's market halls and supermarkets than on the field itself.
Which Entrance to Tempelhofer Feld Is the Best?
If I had to recommend one place at Tempelhofer Feld that many visitors overlook, it would be Nuture Art Minigolf.
From the outside, it already looks like a different kind of mini golf course. But after just a few holes, you'll quickly realize that this is something completely new.
Instead of classic obstacles, you'll find interactive works of art that move, light up, or react to your shots.
Each hole explores topics like sustainability, climate, energy, and natural resources—without ever feeling preachy.
That's exactly what makes it so much fun. You're not just moving from one hole to the next—you keep discovering new ideas along the way.
Whether you're visiting as a couple, with friends, or as a family, Nuture Art Minigolf is one of Berlin's most underrated attractions in my opinion.
It fits Tempelhofer Feld perfectly because it's just as creative, unusual, and open as the place itself.
If you're entering the site via Columbiadamm, it's well worth making this short detour.
Is the THF Tower at Tempelhofer Feld Worth Visiting?
Yes—especially if you'd like to experience Tempelhofer Feld from a completely different perspective.
While the vast open space below feels almost endless, you only truly appreciate its scale from above.
From the THF Tower's rooftop terrace, you'll look out over the former runways, the monumental airport building, and large parts of Berlin.
The climb itself is worth it too. The carefully restored staircase deliberately preserves the building's historic structure, making it a piece of architectural history in its own right.
Your visit is complemented by changing exhibitions. The current exhibition on the history of Lufthansa at Tempelhof Airport is particularly fascinating, showing how closely aviation, politics, and business were connected over the decades.
If you'd like to explore the history of this extraordinary building in more detail afterwards, you'll find the complete story in our blog about Tempelhof Airport—from its earliest days of aviation to its closure in 2008.
If you're interested in Berlin's architecture and design, you should also check out the story of AMPELMANN Berlin.
The History of Tempelhofer Feld in Brief
Although Tempelhofer Feld is now best known as a place for leisure and recreation, few places in Berlin have such a remarkable history.
Over the centuries, the site was used as farmland, a military parade ground, and later for some of the first aviation experiments. With the opening of Tempelhof Airport, it became one of Europe's most important aviation hubs.
During the Nazi era, forced labor camps and arms production facilities were built here before the airport became world-famous during the Berlin Airlift.
After flight operations ended in 2008, the former airfield reopened two years later as a public open space following a public referendum.
Today, the former runways and several historic sites still serve as reminders of this past.
Why Is Tempelhofer Feld Still So Controversial Today?
Few places in Berlin have sparked as much debate over the years as Tempelhofer Feld.
Some see it as a unique open space that should be preserved at all costs.
Others argue that, given Berlin's housing shortage, part of the site should be developed.
In between, there have been countless other ideas: a research campus, large-scale event venues, or even a Formula One circuit and a German version of Hollywood.
It's hard to imagine any of that today as you walk along the former runways.
I still remember those debates well. My first public referendum was about the future of the airport, and later I voted in the referendum to preserve Tempelhofer Feld. It was the first time I truly experienced how emotionally urban development is discussed in Berlin.
Back then, people often talked about how former East and West Berliners viewed the site differently.
That's why, even today, Tempelhofer Feld is much more than just a park. It's a symbol of how differently people imagine the future of their city.
Honest Tips for Visiting Tempelhofer Feld
Tempelhofer Feld often looks smaller in photos than it really is. Plan a little more time than you think you'll need, and especially during summer, make sure to bring plenty of water.
There’s very little shade across the vast open space, but there's almost always a light breeze. That's exactly why Tempelhofer Feld is so popular with kite flyers, kite surfers, and skaters.
If you're planning a picnic, it's well worth picking up food beforehand rather than trying to find something on the field itself.
A bicycle also makes exploring much more enjoyable, as many distances are longer than they appear. Barbecuing is only allowed in designated areas, and dogs may only be off leash in the designated dog exercise areas.
My personal tip: Visit in the late afternoon. The light becomes softer, the temperatures more comfortable, and Tempelhofer Feld is probably at its very best.
Why Berliners Love Tempelhofer Feld
People visiting Tempelhofer Feld for the first time often wonder why Berliners are so passionate about such a vast open space.
The answer isn't a landmark—it's a feeling.
At Tempelhofer Feld, there's no pressure to spend money, no overcrowded squares, and no fixed itinerary. Everyone uses the space differently. Some read a book in the grass, others spend hours cycling, exercising, or simply meeting friends for a barbecue.
Maybe that's the greatest luxury in a densely built city: space.
Space without having to buy anything. Space for spontaneous ideas. Space where children can fly kites and adults can simply sit and watch the sunset.
Every time I'm here, it reminds me why Berlin is so special.
Just like at Oberbaumbrücke, in the Spreewald, or during a summer evening at Monbijou Theater, the city isn't defined by a single attraction—it's defined by its atmosphere.
That's why, for me, Tempelhofer Feld is one of the most authentic places in Berlin.
How to Get to Tempelhofer Feld
Tempelhofer Feld is easy to reach by public transport.
The best entrance depends on what you'd like to do during your visit.
Tempelhofer Damm (Main Entrance)
Take the S-Bahn (S41, S42, or S47) to Tempelhof, or the U6 to Tempelhof or Paradestraße. This entrance is ideal for visiting the THF Tower, the former airport building, and the bike rental.
Oderstraße
Take the U8 to Leinestraße or Boddinstraße, then walk for around five to seven minutes. This entrance is perfect for the Allmende-Kontor, Schillerkiez, and relaxed picnic spots.
Columbiadamm
Take bus M43 to Friedhöfe Columbiadamm or Golßener Straße. From here, you can quickly reach Tempelgarten, the barbecue areas, and Nuture Art Minigolf.
Parking around Tempelhofer Feld is limited, so travelling by public transport or bicycle is usually the most convenient option.
Is Tempelhofer Feld Worth Visiting?
Yes—but not because there's always something happening. It's because there are so many ways to experience it.
Tempelhofer Feld is one of the few places in Berlin where you'll see the city from a completely different perspective. Instead of landmarks, long queues, and crowds of tourists, you'll find wide open space, fresh air, and the feeling of simply having time.
Whether you spend an hour walking, watch the sunset, or enjoy an entire afternoon with friends, that's exactly what Tempelhofer Feld has become known for over the years.
Berlin isn't a tourist attraction. Berlin is a city.
See you in the honest Berlin—or here in the next blog.
Take care 🖤
MOST IMAGES IN THIS ARTICLE ARE SAMPLE IMAGES AND WERE NOT TAKEN AT THE PLACES FEATURED.
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